Search my site

Key Web Links
Thursday
Dec062018

Discovered mites in some flour!

Some time ago I opened a standard bag of flour that had been stored for a week or two. I spotted that the top surface of the flour and the sides of the paper bag were hosting a few unwelcome guests in the shape of tiny wingless little grey bugs or ‘mites’ that were crawling around inside. This article tells you all about the pest and how to eradicate them.

Click to read more ...

Wednesday
Dec072016

Shopping for a Panasonic hi-fi?

How hard can it be to buy a mini hi-fi? I was looking for a small Panasonic CD player with DAB radio, as the one that caught my eye had good reviews for sound quality, was very compact and easy to use and I’ve got on well with the Panasonic brand for forty years. Digging around on Amazon I found the Panasonic SC-PM250EB-S Micro Speaker System and then I saw the identical-looking Panasonic SC-PM250BEBS DAB Micro Hi-Fi System. What's the difference?

Click to read more ...

Friday
Jul082016

How to get rid of spider mite on greenhouse crops and houseplants

Updated on Wednesday, July 20, 2016 at 12:50PM by Registered CommenterAlan W

Updated on Thursday, July 28, 2016 at 11:52AM by Registered CommenterAlan W

Updated on Sunday, August 7, 2016 at 10:39PM by Registered CommenterAlan W

Summer’s well on the way and my greenhouse tomato and cucumber crops are looking promising, but this year I’m noticing the early onset of a greenhouse pest that has the potential to totally devastate everything it attacks: spider mite. These are very tiny pests that feed off the plant’s circulatory system, literally sucking the life out of them. Their ability to destroy large plants is out of all proportion to their size – they are smaller than grains of flour or dust particles, and are barely visible to the naked eye.

Click to read more ...

Wednesday
Jan202016

How to stop fence panels from rattling

Fence Panel Grips are a unique way of stopping fence panels from rattlingWith wet and windy weather fast approaching, British homeowners who own those attractive fence panels held in place with slotted concrete posts will probably start to notice them rattling in the wind.  In fact those expensive slatted panels cope better with high winds than solid panels do – the open construction with gaps lets the wind pass through, unlike solid so-called feather-edge board, but fence panel rattling is a perennial problem especially at night time: the sound can be as bad as a long train rumbling in the distance, and it can keep you and your neighbours awake!

There hasn’t been a simple but reliable way of dealing with this nuisance until now. Various DIY remedies include trying to bash wedges into the top, but that won’t secure them at the bottom, or somehow screwing fence panels into the concrete posts.  That’s a hit and miss affair as they are probably pre-stressed concrete posts having at least two iron cores. You don’t want to be drilling them in case they crack or you hit the iron cores inside, though I have got away with drilling smaller holes in the centre for Rawlplugs to enable small hooks to be screwed to them.

Fenceclip stops wooden fences rattling (click to see)Eventually I found the best answer to stop fence panels rattling is to use a special spring clip specially designed for the job. They are made of stainless steel wire and marketed exclusively by Fence Panel Grips Ltd, a small startup firm based in Redditch (not surprising as Redditch is the home of spring clip manufacturing in Britain).

Fitting these fencing clips is easy – simply press them flat and slide them into the gap. They will expand again to take up the gap between the fence panel and concrete post. As I found, larger panels really do need six clips each, to prevent the panel from being buffeted and the spring clips working themselves out. So use three clips down each side. Another benefit is that they can be fitted from your side of the fence, without needing to access your neighbour's property.

In practice, I fitted clips to some fifteen 1800mm panels during Winter 2015 to see how well they worked. There have been several storms and generally I found the clips held up well. The problem of fence panel rattling had been cured. I did however find that one or two clips loosened a little after severe storms, but it was simple to slide them back in again.

I found very rarely that one or two fenceclips sprang out after severe storms, but it's simple to secure them again (click to see)It's a shame that the clips can’t be screwed down to the panels or maybe stapled in, which would stop them creeping sideways and coming out. But that’s nit-picking as there is nothing else like these clips on the market and I’ve been glad to install them. They can only help with security, too. Overall, if fence panel rattling is a problem then this is the best solution to date, but I recommend checking them every few weeks.

The only alternative I’ve seen are some cheaper screw-down brackets that clamp the panels to the concrete posts, but these may or may not be suitable depending on dimensions, and if your posts are an 'offset slot' style you might only be able to do it from your neighbour's side.

If these Amazon links no longer work (sigh), visit Fence Panel Grips' website - see comments below.

Wednesday
Jan202016

Wooden (Euro) 1800mm fence panels hints and tips

After repairing a long run of wooden fence panels I learned quite a lot about fence panels that's not widely understood. I’ve written this piece to help anyone thinking of replacing or buying wooden fencing, especially those modern 1800mm Euro panels.

6' Feather Edge panels

Typical feather-edge panel (bowed top)In Britain, traditional solid ‘feather edge’ panels are manufactured in 6-foot lengths. That’s 1828mm in new money. They’re usually quite robust, but they need securing to equally robust fence posts. Some people might use wooden posts driven or concreted into the ground for this. Others have used Metpost or similar metal sockets for mounting wooden posts, but opinions about them have been mixed and personally I'm not sure they are robust enough.

A more convenient way is to cement concrete slotted posts into the ground. Their H-profile allows panels to slide in and out like bread in a toaster; panels can then be replaced easily in years ahead. Also it’s worth using “gravel boards” – these cement panels slot between the concrete posts at the bottom and raise the wooden panels off the soil. This protects fence panels from damage and stops e.g. soil from borders (or your neighbours) piling up against the fence panels. The combination of concrete slotted posts and gravel boards is probably the best way of erecting wooden fencing panels to cope with Britain’s variable climate.

Various heights of gravel board are made with smooth or textured treatments that give a pleasing appearance. It’s very important to watch out for the correct length of gravel board though – for typical British feather-edge fencing, double-check for traditional 6’ / 1828mm lengths and ensure you don’t buy metric 1800mm gravel boards (see later) by mistake.

I found that although some catalogues claim their fence panels are metric 1.8m/ 1800mm wide, in practise they were NOT. They can be 6’ / 1828mm wide so you should double-check the size carefully.

The low-down on Euro 1800mm fence panels

Things are more complicated when considering these more expensive fence panels (sometimes called “Euro” panels). They have various attractive lattice effects and patterns as well as straight or bow (arched) tops, and strung together in long lengths they can produce a striking and distinctive garden feature. Unlike traditional British feather-edge panels though, they are not 6’ (1828mm or 1.83m) but are metric 1800mm instead, an inch smaller. Although a number of UK timber merchants market them, the metric size gives us a clue: in fact they are made by just a handful of manufacturers in Eastern Europe (Poland I believe). UK merchants simply import them and get them own-labelled: they are all the same stuff.

I first used them back in 2007 when the designs were new in the UK, but these earliest fence panels were often stapled together rather than screwed (depending who made them) and mine haven’t weathered very well at all. From experience, the slats started bowing along their lengths and generally they sprang themselves apart and gradually self-destructed. Nor did they take well to kids banging footballs against them which loosened the slats even more! Overall the quality of these early panels was very disappointing and after 8 years I decided that mine need replacing. If you’re thinking of buying these Euro 1800mm fence panels then read on...

Euro 1800mm fence panel sizing - hints & tips!

Details of how to install H-profile concrete slotted posts are widely available on the web. It’s then simple enough to swap the panels in the future. I found I could (with some help) slide out the old ones and slot in the new ones easily enough. Before you buy replacements, here are some key points to bear in mind.

  • Sizing:  all ‘Euro’ panels are 1800mm wide but they are made in various heights. In the case of bowed (arched) panels, the height is the peak at the apex not at the side (shoulder). This is relevant as you need to set your concrete posts to the shoulder height, which is obviously lower than the peak of bowed fence panels. Catalogues don’t show the shoulder height unfortunately.
  • The earliest bowed panels such as “Elite” almost towered over you, with apex heights of a whopping 1.95m and a 1.8m shoulder. Today, they are universally 1.8m apex with a ~1.65m shoulder (approx as measured). This size reduction was sneaked in and not even timber merchants noticed. So if you want to keep your existing concrete posts and replace earlier-type bowed panels of 1.95m peak height, you’re almost certainly out of luck. You’ll have to use 1.8m square panels instead, or put new (shorter) posts in.
  • I had similar sizing issues when I wanted to swap some smaller Elite panels having bow-shaped lattice tops. The original concrete posts were set to 1.0m height, but I only found one single lattice panel that would match – Earnshaw’s Florence 1.2m (peak), which happily had a 1.0m shoulder.
  • Ensure your fence panel slats are screwed not stapled. Stainless steel screws are now used to screw the slats together, and staples are a cheap no-no that will spring apart eventually.
  • The newer preservatives are arsenic-free (but less effective, it’s said), but I found I’m allergic to them! I suffered a terrible itchy rash when installing them, so it’s best to wear workgloves when handling them.
  • If you find yourself fitting 1800mm Euro panels into a legacy 6’ (1828mm) gap, you can sometimes buy 14mm fillet strips to screw to the panel sides to add 28mm and make them fit.
  • Again, if installing gravel boards or other types of fencing, be sure to double-check sizes – either 1800 or 1828mm. I can't believe my builder cut 28mm off 15 6' gravel boards to make them fit, but he did...

After shopping around, easily the best choice of fence panels was offered by Job. Earnshaw's Fencing Centres.  Established 150 years ago they make a lot of their own fence panels but Euro panels are imported in vast quantities into their Yorkshire depot. Outside of their local delivery area, you would have to arrange transport. I found them substantially cheaper than e.g. Jewson's ‘Elite’ for what amounts to pretty much the same product. I found Earnshaw’s to be first class and highly professional. They also cut and frame panels to bespoke sizes for a very nominal charge.

Tanalised timber preservative

Many such panels are made of ‘tanalised’ softwood timber which involves placing the complete panels into a vacuum chamber to draw out any moisture, then reverse the process and drive a wood preservative into the wood grain under pressure. It’s what gives the timber that light green pallor (the copper sulphate and other compounds are an anti-fungal treatment). They staple little squares of wood here and there to act like ‘feet’ that allows the gases to circulate around the panels stacked up in the chamber.

Problem was, old tantalised preservative contained arsenic which was subsequently banned. That’s also a major reason why old tanalised timber cannot and must not be used for e.g. bonfires or in barbecues. It is also said that such timber panels should not be used adjacent to food crops or allotments, due to the risk of heavy metal seepage and poisoning.

Hard to believe but my original British pressure-treated/ Cuprinolled wooden fence is still holding up after 35 years. Today's tanalised fence panels should be good for, say 7+ years but after 2-3 years they discolour and start to go silver-grey until they look very dull. Some owners paint them with a timber coating (best of luck). In my view, timber-preservative like Ronseal Fence Life is better brushed on as you can brush it into the woodgrain; it can also be sprayed on although this has resulted in legal spats against neighbours due to wind carrying the overspray and paint spattering everywhere (house, cars, windows...)

Hopefully the above practical tips will help prevent making any mistakes when sourcing and buying wooden panels.

Separately I write about how to stop wooden fence panels rattling in the wind.